Blocking Techniques for Different Yarn Fibres

iscover how to bring out the best in your knits with fibre-specific blocking techniques that enhance shape, drape, and stitch definition

You've cast off the last stitch, woven in the ends, and admired your finished piece… but something feels off. The edges curl, the lace doesn’t pop, and it’s not quite the shape it should be. Welcome to the unsung hero of beautiful knits: blocking.

Blocking can feel like a mysterious final step, full of steam, pins, and whispered promises of transformation. But with the right method for your yarn, it’s simpler than you think — and the results? Magical.

Before we dive in, if you’d like to watch our YouTube blocking tutorial, tap here:

Why Block at All?

Blocking evens out stitches, opens up lace, smooths out curling edges, and helps shape your project to perfection. It’s not cheating — it’s finishing with finesse. And when you’ve spent hours knitting, your work deserves to shine.

The Three Main Blocking Methods

There’s no one-size-fits-all approach — the best technique depends on your yarn fibre, project type, and even personal preference. But here are the main blocking styles every knitter should know:

1. Wet Blocking

Soak the piece completely in lukewarm water, then gently squeeze out the excess (never wring!). Pin to shape on a blocking mat and leave to dry.

Best for:

• Wool and wool blends
• Alpaca
• Silk
• Most lacework

Top tip: Want that lace shawl to bloom? Pin it out with precision and stretch those points. It’s like yoga for your yarn.

2. Steam Blocking

Hold a steamer or steam iron a few centimetres above your work and let the steam relax the fibres. Never touch the fabric directly unless you're using a pressing cloth.

Best for:

• Blends
• Projects that just need a light reshaping

3. Spritz or Mist Blocking

Lightly mist your project with water, pin into shape, and leave to dry. Ideal when you don’t want to soak the whole piece or you're just taming a misbehaving corner.

Best for:

• Delicate fibres
• Projects with colourwork or textured stitches where you want more control

Blocking by Fibre Type

Each fibre has its quirks. Here’s how to handle them:

Wool & Wool Blends

• Method: Wet block for best results.
• Why: Wool has great memory and bounce — blocking enhances this beautifully.
• Watch for: Over-stretching. Treat it gently and it will bounce back with grace.

Alpaca

• Method: Wet block or mist block.
• Why: Alpaca drapes more than wool and has less elasticity. Blocking helps stabilise the shape.
• Watch for: Over-handling when wet — alpaca grows when left unsupported.

Silk

• Method: Wet or spritz block, pinned flat.
• Why: Silk benefits from careful blocking to enhance sheen and stitch definition.
• Watch for: Water spots. Use distilled water if your tap water is hard or leaves marks.

Cotton & Linen

• Method: Steam or wet block.
• Why: These fibres don’t stretch much, but blocking helps flatten and soften.
• Watch for: Shrinkage — especially if using hot water or too much steam.

Blocking Tools That Make Life Easier

You don’t need a studio full of gear, but a few basics go a long way:

• Blocking mats: Foam tiles or a dedicated blocking board
• Rust-proof pins or T-pins
• Wires: Especially helpful for straight lines or lace
• Spray bottle: For misting

How Do You Know If It Needs Blocking?

A few signs:

• The edges curl or roll
• Lace or cables look squashed
• Your gauge is slightly off
• The piece doesn’t match the intended shape

In other words… pretty much everything benefits from it.

Final Thoughts (and a Little Encouragement)

Blocking may not be as thrilling as casting on, but it’s often what separates homemade from handmade. It’s your moment to sculpt and set your work. Whether you’re spritzing a swatch or stretching a shawl, embrace the process — it’s part of the artistry.

And besides, what’s more satisfying than seeing your stitches settle into their final, glorious form?

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